We made it - Wednesday April 19

It is still dark and cold when the taxi drives us to the airport. Today Chile is having a census and the people has been asked to stay home. No rush hour traffice, just speeding through the empty streets. We too have to present ourselves to the census vounteers before boarding our flight to Easter Island, and get a sticker to show for it. After almost 5 hours of flying over the sunny unbroken Pacific

the plane begins to go down

and we see the first glimpses of the island's wide swathes of green hills and rocky coastline.

The plane was full and there's a throng of people waiting for their luggage, which takes a while to arrive. Breaking the tension is a cheerful labrador, moving around the emerging suitcases sniffing for something, drugs, most likely. When he's done, his equally chill handler lets him interact with the passengers. Once outside, we locate someone from the hotel waiting for us with flower necklaces

and who takes us away to the Hangaroa Eco Village and Spa. The hotel is located near the sea, with spacious low cabins spread throughout the grounds and around a large pool blinking invitingly in the sun, still high in the sky and surprisingly hot. We've moved two hours back in time. During lunch at the hotel restaurant we watch huge waves build and break on the jagged lava rocks in front of us - really quite impressive. Then we hang out at the pool, marveling at the perfect water temperature, and gathering new energy after the long trip.

The sunset is best enjoyed at Tahai, a rocky outcrop further down the coast beyond the town, where a row of 5 giant statues watch the island. We walk down to the sea from the hotel  to take in the spectacular views left and right

and then start walking towards our distant goal. The island has basically two beaches, both on the other - northern - side, which according to the guidebook close after March, but here  in the harbour we observe man-made areas, which are full of enthusiastic bathers and, further out, surfers of those powerful waves. We see many dogs moving around by themselves, some in groups of three. 

We're beginning to feel the fatigue of the long day, and also there's the curious absence of all commerce, no restaurants, no shops, few people on the road - due to the census. But eventually we reach the long grassy slope bordered at the sea by the impassive Moai statues and settle down to watch.

We're surrounded by groups of other tourists. We can hear Russian, Spanish, French, and all react in their different ways when some cute puppies appear, playfully jumping on people. A little French boy musters up courage to run with them, his cheeks bright red with excitement.

Meanwhile the sun slowly lowers into the sea, behind the clouds.

Although beautiful, it lacks that final blast of color. Next to us a young American man had set up fancy photo equipment with tripod and many lenses. He now packs it all up and observes to us how yesterday was better. But we're happy - we've started our Rapa Nui experience - we're really here.

It's a tired threesome that trudges home in the gathering dusk. On the last stretch the road is very dark and we discover, right in front of us, two big dark horses grazing on either side of the street. As we pass one whinnies and canters over to Victor. He and I both yelp, "Oswaldo!" and hasten our stride, while Oswaldo follows laughing and shaking his head. "I just said hello."